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KOCHEL-AM-SEE |
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Kochel-am-See,
situated in the area of Upper Bavaria known as Tölzer Land, is a wonderful
place for outdoor recreation, on the lake or in the surrounding mountains.
The scenery is fabulous and Kochel is within very easy reach from Kloster
Benediktbeuern, where the Chamber Musicians mostly stayed when visiting
Bavaria in 2003, and again in 2004. Members of the party made several
excursions to Kochel, either hiring bikes, or making the five minute journey
by train, and then exploring on foot. There are numerous walking trails in
the mountains and |
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Kochel-am-See, an arial view with the Kochelsee and a small glimpse of the larger Walchensee between the mountains |
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Looking across the water of the Kochelsee in late
afternoon light
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The natural
beauty of this area attracted a number of German Expressionist painters
associated with the movement known as
Der Blaue Reiter (after the famous pianting by Vassily
Kandinsky). They first visited the area and later bought property and came to
live here. The painter Franz Marc 1880 – 1916) settled in Kochel-am-See,
before the First World War, and Gabriele Münter and Vassily Kandinsky shared
a house in Murnau, not very far away. Franz Marc’s house is now a museum where you can see some twenty of his
paintings, as well as numerous sketches and drawings, paintings by other Blaue
Reiter artists, including Gabriele Münter, Kandinsky, and Jawlensky, and
various memorabilia. The villa itself is very attractive. |
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The shore of the Kochelsee
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Our first German
tour, in 2003 was partly a study tour, with the composer Richard Strauss as
its main focus. We were interested in these painters who, although they have
no obvious connection with Strauss, were his contemporaries and fairly near
neighbours. The lecture series which we organised as preparation
for the tour, and which took place in the months preceding it, included a
talk on German Expressionism by Dr. Aya Soika, then at New Hall. Aya is a specialist on this subject and her lecture covered
both of the two main movements within German Expressionism: Die Brücke ,
mainly associated with Berlin, and Der Blaue Reiter centred around
Kandinsky and his friends in Bavaria.
What is of interest in connection with Strauss, is that at the start
of his career he was in Berlin, and did seem to have an affinity with Die
Brücke, who, like Strauss at that time, were out to shock. The movement
was a reaction against the stuffy Wilhelmine morality of the time. The
painters’ scenes of nude bathers
(shocking to their contemporaries) have their counterpart in a work such as
Strauss’s Salome. However later in life Strauss really became a late
Romantic. He was a keenly interested in painting and a great collector, but
there appears to be no evidence that he had any interest in the Blaue
Reiter movement on his doorstep in Bavaria. There are some German
impressionist paintings in his villa, but his main interest seems to have
been in Bavarian religious paintings of a much earlier period, and he
collected verre eglomise. This probably does tell us something about
Strauss, especially since the main pre-occupation of the Blaue Reiter painters
was colour, and Kandinsky thought in terms of colour harmony on an analogy
with musical harmony. This clearly did not interest the composer.
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The Franz Marc Museum
in Kochel-am-See
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Franz Marc paintings on view in his house in
Kochel-am-See, now the Franz Marc Museum
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